Braj ki Hori

The most famous Holi in the northern India is that of Barsana, a small town in Uttar Pradesh, the home of adolescent Krishna's love, Radha. Romance is not quite what comes to mind when you see men from Nandgaon (Krishna's home) being beaten up with sticks from Radha's village, after they have been provoked by the colorful language. Celebrations here start a week earlier than the rest of India. Men of Nandagaon raid Barsana with hopes of raising their flag over Shri Radhikaji's temple. They receive a thunderous welcome as the village women greet them with long wooden sticks. The men are soundly beaten as they attempt to rush through the town and reach the relative safety of Shri Radhikaji's temple. Men are well padded with foam, since they are not allowed to retaliate.

In this mock battle, the men try their best not to be captured. Unlucky captives can be forcefully lead away, thrashed and dressed in female attire before being made to dance! Poets like Surdas, Nand-das, Kumbhan-das and others have recounted tales of Krishna being captured and forced to wear a sari, make-up and then dance before being released by the gopis of Braj.

The next day, men of Barsana reciprocate by invading Nandagaon. Clouds of pink and white powder mark the frenzy of activity taking place in its narrow streets. The women of Nadagaon beat the invaders from Barsana. There are even vantage points for tourists who choose to look on. A large open ground, on the outskirts of the town, is specially set aside for the most magnificent display of the festivities.

The next day, the temples in Vrindavan (close to Mathura) celebrate the festival. The temple of Banke-Bihari, the beloved lord of the 15th century saint Haridas, is at the center of the festivities. Clouds of pink and white descend upon the pilgrims, as the Lord of Vrindavan plays Holi with all his visitors.

The festival moves on to other parts of Braj. Gulal-Kund in Braj is a beautiful little lake, set in delightful groves near the mountain Goverdhan, in the Mathura district. Here, the festival is commemorated on a more regular basis. Pilgrims, who visit the Holy Land of Braj, can see the re-enactments of Holi throughout the year. Local boys, acting in the Krishna-Lila drama troupes, re-enact the scenes of Holi for the pilgrims. The next day onwards it is business as usual in both God's houses and men's.